Ragdoll Cat

It has lots of fur, which is said not to mat. It is a quiet, loyal and affectionate cat and very dependent on its owner. Because it is supposed not to feel pain , the Ragdoll is vulnerable and any injury may go unnoticed. Anyone contemplating owning a Ragdoll should therefore expect to be entirely responsible for it, as this cat, more than any other, requires mothering.


The Ragdoll has another unique feature: when picked up and carried it relaxes completely becoming limp like a ragdoll or bean bag. Although this has given the breed its name and a large press coverage, scientific tests have shown that, physiologically, this cat is no different from others.

Grooming
Because the Ragdoll has a very long coat, it will need daily grooming, if not to remove knots and tangles, then to remove dead hairs. As it moults heavily in the summer, thorough grooming at this time is particularly important. The tangles should be combed out using a wide-toothed comb, then the coat brushed gently but thoroughly using a long-bristled brush.

Origin and history
The Ragdoll originated in California and its ancestors are very mixed. The foundation stock seems to have involved a white Angora, a Birman and a non-pedigree Burmese. This mixed blood has resulted in large and vigorous descendants. Within the accepted colours, Ragdolls breed true, so that today Ragdolls are mated only to Ragdolls, although in the early days of the breed there were many back crosses to the foundation sires.

Breeding
To preserve the distinguishing features of the breed, Ragdolls are mated only to Ragdolls. It is possible to produce Ragdoll kittens in one of the desired coat patterns and colours in every litter.

Kittens
Like all Himalayan-patterned cats, the kittens are born all-white, the point colours and coat shading developing gradually. Ragdoll kittens are slow to mature and it may be three years before the full adult coat is developed.

RAGDOLL COLOURS
Ragdolls are bred in three coat patterns �colourpoint, milted and bicolour�and in seal, chocolate, blue and lilac point colours within these patterns. All are recognized for competition in the United States.
Colourpoint. Body colour should be an even shade down to the roots. Points (ears, mask, legs and tail) darker providing a distinct contrast with the body colour. Chest, bib and chin a much lighter shade of the body colour. Ticking and white spotting not accepted.
Mitted. Body colour should be an even shade down to the roots. Points (ears, mask, legs and tail) darker, providing a distinct contrast with the body colour. Chest, bib and chin white. A white stripe runs from the bib between the forelegs to the base of the tail. White mittens on both front paws should be evenly matched and scalloped. White boots on hind legs also to match. Coloured spots in white areas or ticking on coloured areas are faults.
Bicolour. Body colour should be an even shade down to the roots. The ears, mask (with the exception of an inverted 'V' down the nose, which is white) and tail are darker and clearly defined. Chest, stomach and legs white. The sym metrical inverted 'V' on the face starts between the ears, covers the nose, whisker pads, neck and bib. It should not extend beyond the outer edge of the eyes. There should be no coloured spots on the white areas. The body areas may have small spots of white.
Seal-point. Body colour a pale fawn shading to pale cream on the underparts. Points dense seal brown. Noseleather dark brown. Paw pads dark brown or black. Eyes deep blue.
Chocolate-point. Body colour an even ivory all over. Points warm milk-chocolate. Noseleather rose. Paw pads salmon. Eyes deep blue.
Blue-point. Body colour an even platinum grey-blue, shading to lighter blue on the underparts. Points deep blue-grey. Noseleather and paw pads dark blue-grey. Eyes deep blue.
Lilac-(Frost-) point. Bodycolour an even milk white all over. Points frosty grey-pink. Inside ears very pale pink. Noseleather lilac. Paw pads coral pink. Eyes deep blue However, the Persian is quieter and less adventurous than some of its shorthaired cousins, and can often be kept in a fenced area of the garden from which a longer legged cat would escape, though the cat should not be permanently penned up on its own. A Persian will also live happily in an apartment, pro vided it is given the run of the place and plenty of fresh air.